McNamara Gear Replacement

Helpful other writeups and parts lists:

Mitch Rowland Write up
Mitch Rowland Parts PDF

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Ordering Information:

Contact Jeff McNamara by email and ask for the current pricing of the shaft. You will need to specify if you have a 32 tooth or 34 tooth output gear. USA model FJ62 Land Cruisers have the 32 tooth gear. Check for your application before ordering yours.
You will also have to ask Jeff McNamara for thier account number. I don't feel comfortable placing it here for the entire world to see.
Printable page to take to the bank

Related parts list:

Thanks to Ken Flescher for putting this list together (prices will vary).

Gaskets:
36164-60040 $ 3.32 Transfer shift mechanism
36416-36010 $ 1.66 Transfer diaphragm housing
36144-60020 $ 2.31 PTO cover
36143-60020 $ 8.60 Main case gasket (very important)
36152-60030 $ 2.57 Rear output shaft housing
36142-60030 $ 4.40 Tranny output shaft cover
36143-60040 $ 8.35 Transfer case front @ tranny
90430-18008 $ 1.06 Drain/fill plugs (need 2)

O-rings:
90301-34005 $ 1.89 Tranny output shaft
90301-34004 $ 1.66 Idler shaft ends (need 2)

Seals:
90316-48003 $ 8.69 Tranny/transfer separator
90311-48009 $ 9.20 Output flange, front
90311-48010 $ 7.43 Output flange, rear

Nuts:
90179-22005 $ 3.94 Output flange stake nuts (need 2)
90179-26004 $ 2.74 Tranny output shaft stake nut

Bearings:
90363-35013 $27.84 Tranny output shaft (rear)
90364-38012 $31.92 Idler shaft roller (need 2)
90363-35013 $27.84 Front output shaft (front)
90366-35011 $46.16 Main output shaft (front)
90366-35054 $50.39 Main output shaft (rear)
90364-40001 $53.30 Roller for output gear (need 2)
90364-17010 $13.69 Small pilot brg for front of output shaft

Other:
36222-60020 $17.98 Idler shaft thrust washer (need 2)
36225-60050 $45.00 Idler shaft (price from SOR web site)

Tear down Pictures

Greasy T-case with drive shaft removed
First half of T-case off, idler removed - notice the stream of ATF, bad!!
Old gear - notice the triangle shaped spline
New Gear - notice the more square spline
Spacer with park awl. This is where to stop taking things apart!
Front half of t-case off of the spacer
Look closely at the splines of the shaft. Notice the worn part. The new gear rides on previously unused spline, so no worries there.
Park pawl - this is what holds your Cruiser when in Park. No need to remove it.

Assembly

Assembly is straight forward, and this was probably the smoothest any big job has gone for me while working on the Land Cruiser. Follow the FSM and you will be fine. Don't forget to change the o-rings on the idler shaft. There were a few things that I noticed during assembly. Pay attention to which gear set goes on when. I had initially put the McNamara on first and had to take it off because of a part of the idler gear set. I slid the McNamara back on the shaft and then slid the idler gear shaft into place. Then I put the lower gear set on. Line up the shifting fork and put it on at the same time. Be sure to line the thrust washer tab up with the notch in the front case.

When you put the back part of the case on, line up the shifting lever in the notch on the shifting fork. Line up the loose end of the shifting fork shaft with the hole in the rear case. Also, take some time and locate the other thrust washer on the idler shaft. Just like the first thrust washer you will have to line up a tab with a notch in the case. This is a little difficult, but not impossible.

Using Toyota gaskets made this job very easy. They are cut perfectly. The top shaft cover (the steel one with six bolts) has a cork gasket. This gasket has an extra hole in it. Look at the cover plate and the rear case. There is a hole in the case and a small channel in the steel cover. This is for oil drainback from the bearing. If you don't line this up, it isn't going to be the end of the world. A leak will develop sooner though since the oil will sit in the cavity.

Last Update:
April 27, 2008