Introduction:
I hope that everyone enjoyed the article in Toyota Trails.
***If you don't have your very own copy, order one from the TLCA***
Get the July/August 2005 Issue
I had a lot of fun writing the article, and now even more fun driving my Cruiser again.
For anyone interested in doing the engine swap of a 2F into a FJ62, here are the full size drawings and pictures for reference.
If you have any questions, please find me on IH8MUD. My user name is tonkota.
And I will help as much as possible. I can also be found on the Yahoo! based 3F-E group.
My vehicle stats:
-Stock A440F Transmission
-31 x 10.50's on 15 x 8 rims
-Stock springs (no add-a-leaf was required)
-Gears are stock, and open diffs
Mileage Results
Running Average: 13.05 MPG (this is the consitant average, no matter how I drive it)
The Text from Toyota Trails Magazine
Article: FJ62 Version 2F-E
The Drawings:
Drawing #1 - Upper A/C bracket to power steering
Drawing #2 - Lower A/C bracket to engine mount
Drawing #3 - Belt Layout and sizes with part numbers
The Pictures:
Picture -
With the engine sitting on a table, it makes it easy to mock up the required brackets for the accessories.
I still didn't have a water pump at this point.
Picture -
The 2F water pump has a larger output than the one from the 3F-E.
I bought this adapter from the local hose shop.
Picture -
I had to use pushrods from a 2F also.
The top one is one from a '75 2F and the bottom one is from the 3F-E. I was going to use the ones from my newly purchased, non-running, 1973 FJ55, but this is what I found:
Engine Problem?? :)
I used new ones from Clevite PN 21-3270 that are for the 2F.
Picture -
Finally, I found the right belt sizes.
The longest one should be a little longer to allow the power steering to sit level.
See the drawing for the part numbers.
Picture -
With the engine sitting in the engine bay, I test fitted the intake to make sure that the hood did indeed close.
Picture -
Very tight fit when the hood is closed, but there is no hood interference.
Picture -
With the power steering in the stock location and sitting level, it too will rub a little on the hood liner.
Picture -
The idler pulley for the large belt had to be ground a little to clear the water pump outlet.
Picture -
A clear view of how much material was taken away from the idler pulley bracket.
Picture -
Another clear view of how much material was taken away from the idler pulley bracket.
Picture -
You will have to use the 2F side cover.
I cut off the PCV vent tube because the 3F-E valve cover has the PCV.
You could leave it though and use a 2F valve cover.
Picture -
A/C to power steering adapter bracket bolted to the A/C mount.
Picture -
Another view A/C to power steering adapter bracket bolted to the A/C mount.
Here is the drawing for this bracket.
Picture -
To clear the water pump main outlet I had to move the A/C pump out 2 1/4".
This is the mount that I made from 1 1/2" x 1/8" steel, drilled to match the A/C pump mount.
Here is the drawing for this bracket.
Picture -
These two extra holes (arrows) are the ones I used to bolt up the top mount for the alternator.
Picture -
With the spacers cut, I had to make some custom length bolts.
Picture -
I extended the smog pump support brace using 1" x 1/8" stock doubled up.
I kept it as low as I could so that I could use the original hoses.
Picture -
The upper mount for the alternator used to bolt up to the water pump,
but is now mounted to the block using some spacers made from 3/8" pipe.
Picture -
Another view of the spacers used for the upper alternator mount.